Neum to Dubrovnik along the Adriatic Coast

It’s just been one of those days – 10 min after waking up on our first morning on the Adriatic Sea it started raining heavily. Ideal to pack the tent and start cycling :). Neum is the city in the little patch that gives Bosnia/ Hercegovina access to the sea. We cycled in the evening before from (expensive) Croatia in the heat and decided we’d invest our last 50 Mark here and go for a swim while we’re at the coast. 40 Mark went straight to the camp owner and thats after cyclist discount – the coast is popular and prices double to quadruple therefore. After all there is an endless caravan of tourists coming here in the summer months.

The road by the shore is part of the Eurovelo 8 network, with this many cars not much enjoyable though, so we checked gps and map data, discovered a small road on top of the hills and a border crossing behind Neum and cycled uphill to get there. 30 min later, certainly awake from climbing, we disturb the border police man in his container on his game of Solitaire. This border crossing is not for international passport holders. We tried hard – he wouldn’t let us go. Oh how do I want Yugoslavia back. Who needs nonsense borders for no reason? Back we go, downhill to the busy coastal road and after a few more kilometres we get to the international border crossing – with nobody being there and the booth closed. Fantastic. We cross, now stuck on the main road with Italians, Polish, Germans, Czechs and Austrians heading to Dubrovnik. Later on we will head up to that road again, nobody there – scenic views and overdosing on blackberries – the fruit in season these days.

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